Apricot Soup on Karimabad Hill

Our first night in Karimabad we went to Hidden Paradise for dinner, and were served thick and sweetly delicious apricot soup, chapati with soft cheese stuffed inside, and smothered in apricot kernal oil. We drank tea called 'tumoro', an herbal blend with a punch and something familiar that I couldn't place, but which made me want more and more; perhaps it helped with the altitude. It was our finest meal of the entire journey and we both longed to stay..and after we left we longed to return...and now in fact I'm in China, backwriting the legs of the journey...and I still long to be in hunza enjoying the apricot splendors.
In the morning, the sunrose over mountains too high to see the top of from our hotel room window. We ate what margret calls 'squeeze the charmin' bread with omelet, and tumoro tea that seemed to be cooked in petrol - deeply disappointed we had to send it back, Ehsan wouldn't even drink it.
We were back on the winding road. I held my camera out to take pictures, though by the time the camera turned on we had turned a bend into a new scene of magnificence. It was a few more dizzying hours until we arrived at the border, Sost. We didn't stop to see any sights, pushing forth to get to china and margret's mission of finding a certain site she had to return to.
Ehsan woke up a cousin who had a special border passport and would drive us over the pass. We had to hire a car from the company with the pass monopoly, Ehsan got us a good price, about $150 for the 4-5 hour journey which also took us through a national park where we had to pay in US dollars $4 per person.
The new driver didn't speak English, but we communicated in Urdu a bit. He was a funny sort of man, he got out of the car at one point and let us take pictures. Getting back in the car he spit and then turned so fast that the spit landed on his coat; we all had to laugh over that.
The glaciers rose and the sites were amazing. The road was dizzying, and as we got to the pass, my face beet red - as I hadn't realized that I could get so sunburned when the climate was well near freezing.